The rear end no longer has 3:1 gearing and instead now has a Detroit Locker with a rear end gearing of 3.89 It has a custom mandrel bent 2.5" stainless steel exhaust with an x pipe and two 2.5" Borla Attak mufflers. The Bird also now has air ride suspension with 2 compressors, airlift 3P system 4 gallon tank, and RideTech suspension parts. In the above pictures you see that ugly rusted thing with the blue hose going through it, thats my power steering pump, which has since been replaced with a smaller more efficient pump. The shift pattern indication on the column of the MX is strange because of it being a "Green Dot" but the pattern is relatively the same, you just have to remember the green dot is drive instead of "D2" The hardest part of the trans-swap was getting a custom kickdown bracket fabricated, and the shift linkage on the transmission swapped as the lever on the T-Birds was unique to all Ford applications being backward. Hindsight is 20/20 I haven't had any problems per say. For the transmission, I regret doing it, but I went with Monster Transmission for the unit. and had a drive attachment that was very unreliable, I replaced it with a Powermaster micro-starter which bolted right to it. The additional benefit to this was the original Bendix starter weighed about 25/30 lbs. I also had to replace the starter and install a different flex plate as the MX used 163 teeth, to the C6 184. To do this I had to remove the transmission, cut the crossmember mount and move it about 3 inches forward. This was a fairly easy swap as the 1966 Flairbirds were now using this as the primary transmission. I replaced it with the tried and true C6. If I wanted to put any power in the car what-so-ever, the archaic and unupgradable ford MX "cruise-o-matic" had to go. Also, check to make sure that the vacuum source lines are connected correctly to the engine.The next upgrade I took care of was the transmission swap.It will not hurt the engine and will clear up soon after all the fluid is purged from the system. There will be some white smoke from the exhaust as the fluid is sucked into the engine. Run the wipers several minutes after the fluid hose is disconnected to remove excess fluid from the wiper motor. It’s a good idea to have an old rag or towel on the floor under the inlet to catch any drips once the fluid hose is removed. It usually takes about a pint of brake fluid to complete the process.Also, to prevent blade drag on the dry windshield, squirt soapy water on the windshield, this will provide lubrication for the blades. Make sure the vacuum hose is always below the level of the fluid.The brake fluid will soften the dried leather seals in the motor. Then work the wipers by hand until they work on their own.Turn on the wipers, run the engine at idle, turn the wipers and the vacuum should suck the fluid into the wiper motor.The wiper inlet tube is located on the side of the motor facing the radio. I use a plastic bottle with a hole punched in the lid and a rubber vacuum hose that fits snugly on the wiper inlet tube.
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